Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Where did the Liberty Elm get its name?
A: The American Liberty elm was named after "The Liberty Tree", Our Country's First Symbol of Freedom. On the morning of August 14, 1765, the people of Boston awakened to discover two effigies suspended from an elm tree in protest of the hated Stamp Act. From that day forward, that elm became known as the "Liberty Tree". For the next ten years, it stood in silent witness to countless meetings, speeches and celebrations, and often served as the rallying place for the Sons of Liberty. In August of 1775, as a last act of violence prior to their evacuation of Boston, British Soldiers cut it down because it bore the name "Liberty".

Q: Do I need to inject my Liberty elm with Elm Fungicide?
A: No. Your Liberty Elm is resistant to Dutch elm disease (DED) and does not need to be injected. Elm Fungicide is a preventive/therapeutic treatment used in the fight to save the remaining large non-resistant elms from DED.

Q: Is the American Liberty Elm a hybrid?
A: NO! Not to be confused with newly released elms or Asian or European hybrids or newly released elms, the new American Liberty Elm is the result of over sixty years of selection and research. The Liberty Elm is a collection of six American elms that survived rigorous testing with injections of live Dutch elm disease fungus. They were developed through cross-pollination with American elms which have natural resistance to the disease, and are true American elms. The strain is kept pure through vegetative propagation of the trees. Your tree is an exact copy of one of the trees that survived the testing in the 1960's and 1970's.

Q: How big will my tree get? Are there any big elms left?
A: Elms are a long-lived species; they can live to be 200-275 years old and grow to 100 feet in height, with a crown spread of 60-65 feet. Herbie, located in Yarmouth, ME, is thought to be the oldest living elm in the Northeast. Planted in 1775, Herbie measures more than 20 ft. in circumference. Your Liberty elm may turn out to be as famous as Herbie!

Q: What is the best location for my Liberty Elm? How far from buildings, streets, and other trees can I plant?
A: Apart from their natural beauty, elms are unequaled as a shade tree. Plantings on the south or west side of your house can provide cooling in the summer. Elms lining a street or driveway cast a cooling shadow on hot summer pavement. The elm's strongest roots tend to go downward instead of laterally. Liberty elms are tolerant of salt conditions and soil compaction, making them a perfect tree for urban street planting. The minimum distance from the street or sidewalk should be 2 ft.; 15 ft. from a house and 30 ft. from another tree.

Q: Can I plant in the median strip in front of my house?
A: In many localities the median between the sidewalk and street is owned by the town or city, and their regulations must be followed. Check your town ordinances. Elms can thrive in this location and can be planted under power wires, because they will rise above them in a few years.

Q: What is the best time to plant?
A: Early spring or early fall is the best time for your young elm to become established, when temperatures are lower and rainfall is more abundant. A fall-planted tree will arrive near or completely dormant, but its root system will continue growing until the ground freezes. It will be ready to burst into growth when Spring arrives in your area.

Q: What are the best soil conditions for planting?
A: Elms will tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, especially once they are established. For the best start for your elm, make sure the soil is well-drained and not too compacted. The pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0, and the soil should have a medium to high level of nutrients.

Q: How long can I wait before I plant my tree after it arrives? Can I pot it and keep it indoors for the winter?
A: You should plant your tree as soon as possible after its arrival; however, weather or other factors may delay your planting. In the fall, do not bring the tree inside for long-term storage or growing. If unexpected weather conditions prevent you from fall planting, store the potted tree outside or in an unheated area with a 3-6 inch covering of mulch (hay, leaves, wood chips, blankets) around the pot only. Plant as soon as possible in the Spring.

Q: Can I grow my elm in a pot before transplanting to a permanent location?
A: Sometimes it is not feasible to transplant your elm directly to its permanent location -- in some spots a 2 ft. tree can easily be run over by a snowplow or lawn mower. Your elm can be grown in a pot for easy transplanting, but you must remember to give it ample water-- daily, in hot summer weather. Another method is to bury the pot in the ground or to use a root-control bag. Make sure that a pot of ample size is used (minimum of a 5-gallon for an 8' tree).

Q: How deep should I plant the tree? How should I prepare the hole?
A: The hole does not have to be very big -- 8-12" in diameter for a 2 ft. tree,  24 to 30" in diameter for a 10 ft. tree. The hole should be about as deep as it is wide. If your soil is very sandy, you can add compost or other organic material to aid in water retention. If your soil is highly compacted, rough up the sides and bottom of the hole with a shovel to help the roots break into the surrounding soil. Plant the tree at the original soil level. Soil or a heavy layer of mulch that touches the trunk can rot the young undeveloped bark and kill the tree.

Q: How often should I water?
A: Watering thoroughly after planting the tree is a must. After that, soil conditions, rainfall and temperature will determine how much water to give your tree. Remember that in the first year after planting that your tree does not have a deep root system to help it through hot or dry periods. When watering, deep watering is more beneficial that several light sprinklings.

Q: Should I stake my tree?
A: Your tree should be staked the first two years to protect it from being blown or pushed over before its roots are well-anchored into its surroundings. Staking a small tree also helps keep the trunk straight. Make sure that any ties used are loose enough to allow for growth.

Q: How can I protect my tree from deer, mice and rabbits?
A: Mice and rabbits can be deterred with fencing, trees guards or a spray repellent such as Ropel. Tree guards are also effective in preventing girdling from string trimmers. Deer have increasingly become a problem in suburban areas. Homemade deterrents include hanging bars of fragrant soap or a 6-ft. wire guard. A commercial spray repellent such as Hinder can also be effective.

Q: How can I control insects like Japanese beetles?
A: Most insects do minimal damage to your tree if it is healthy and rapidly growing; often a hand-picking is all that is needed to eliminate the problem. However, there are times when insects may begin to overwhelm your trees. Most can be controlled with one or two sprays of insecticidal soap or Sevin insecticide. Sevin is effective in killing the adults present, but must be repeated often to control the new beetles that fly in. Make sure that the damage to the tree warrants any measures taken against insect pests. Periodic checks of your tree can catch insect problems while they are small and easier to control.

Q: When should I prune my tree?
A: Pruning your young elm tree is important to develop a strong well-shaped tree. Pruning needs to be done 1-3 times a year during the first few years of growth. A detailed set of pruning instructions is sent with each tree.

Q: What should I do if my tree looks abnormal or develops yellow or brown foliage?
A: First, contact ERI to find possible causes of your tree's problem. If soil samples need to be sent, collect it from several locations within the root zone of the elm. Mix and send a 1/4 cup of the soil. If branch samples need to be analyzed, collect branches from the affected area(s) that are 1/2" - 1-1/2" in diameter. Wrap in plastic. Do not add water or moist paper towels. Send as quickly as possible to ERI. Photos can also aid in the diagnosis. Allow 10-14 days for results.

Q: How can I attach a tag or plaque to my tree?
A: The brass tag can be hung loosely by a wire suspended across a branch crotch until the tree is large enough to attach it with screws. Plaques can be mounted on posts or set into stones or cement in front of the tree.

Q: If my tree dies, will you replace it?
A: The Lifetime warranty that comes with your tree covers Dutch elm disease only, and provides for free replacement with a tree of comparable size (up to 6 ft.). We cannot be responsible for tree deaths that occur from winter kill, drought, vandalism, weed trimmers, lawn mowers, animal loss or soil-related problems. If your tree is lost to one of these causes, we will replace it for you at half-price. Trees suspected of DED death must have the diagnosis confirmed in the ERI lab and the warranty card must be on file with ERI.